Feast for the Eye North End Grill
Could you that appears to that appears to smell the smoke if you absolved in?” Danny Meyer asks. The agents of the restaurant impresario’s newest adventure North End Grill, which is set to accessible its doors in Battery Park today, ameliorate glassware and bankrupt table linens in the empty, brilliant bar abaft him. A bank of vitrines eventually advised to authority an “enormous alternative of individual malt scotches” holds adorning glassware instead. (The restaurant is still cat-and-mouse on its booze authorization and will be accessible alone for cafeteria until afterwards in January.)
There is a adumbration of smoke in the air, to be sure, but just that. Informed of such, Meyer’s face turns briefly squally. He cocks an eyebrow.
“Well, again our admirers are angry up too high,” he explains. “You will be able to that appears to that appears to smell the smoke.”
The barbecue is badly important to Meyer. The restaurant is a large, alluringly lit boîte done in monochrome, advance about a acceptable accessible kitchen and glassed in by floor-to-ceiling windows. The slate-gray copse bank in the dining allowance is advised to answer burnt copse (the firewood rests in baskets amid the angle adverse and the glassed-in wine cellar). The assay accoutrement itself is operated by ample auto angry by hand.
“It’s all about the grill,” Meyer says. “Nobody grills like we’re assay — it’s not that it’s acceptable or that it’s modern. It’s charcoal and it’s the best capacity and the best people.”
The Union Square Hospitality Group arch brought forth chef Floyd Cardoz to captain North End Barbecue afterwards their acknowledged 12-year run at Tabla, the much-loved “New Indian” beanery in Madison Square Park.
“Floyd’s a success,” Meyer explains. “He’s got his New York Times stars, he’s got his ‘Top Chef Masters 2011’ win, he’s got it. And I anticipate he’s aflame to try something different. You know, lots of humans go through this, artists, musicians… you acknowledgment to simpler things. Every pastry chef can acquaint you, the hardest affair to accomplish is a absolute angel pie. He’s abiding to beneath ingredients, arrive something else.”
Cardoz comes out of the kitchen and agrees with Meyer’s sentiments.
“There were times at Tabla area I was bound by the assumption notions of the customer, and that was harder for us as a restaurant and me as a chef,” he says. “This is actual different: assay is about primitive. If I was growing up in India, that’s what I would do if I went camping. That’s what I still do if I go camping. In added countries, in Europe, that’s what they do — they baker over wood. It’s exciting.”
Cardoz studies his menu, which holds offerings like Cod Throats Meuniére, slow-poached egg with California caviar, a broiled mollusk pizza and a bacon-shrimp burger with spice-dusted fries. “It’s traveling to be seasonal, it’s traveling to change,” Cardoz continues. “Yesterday I had snapper on the menu, today I accept atramentous bass. Whatever my angle guy tells me, ‘I got this today, it’s great,’ I use it. I’m not affable on top heat, which is what for the a lot of allotment we do [in the U.S.]: top heat, blight it, get a blubbery crust, get a burn on it and that’s it. I’m traveling gentler, easier, you know, accomplish the capacity allege for themselves.”
Meyer has invested heavily in the amplitude of absolute acreage about North End Grill. Next aperture is a Shake Shack, his accepted burger franchise, and about the bend will be a additional Blue Smoke barbecue. The action echoes his antecedent forays into once-bad, now-great neighborhoods.
“I don’t see it as a Monopoly move,” Meyer says. “We’re not ‘taking over’ the neighborhood, nor do I anticipate we did in Gramercy or Union Square or Madison Square. I see it as a charge to the community. I see it as blame in a ablaze bulb. Like, hey, we’ve got a lot of moths, let’s accord ’em something to augment off of!”
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